Turquoise Energy Newsletter #165 -Febrnuary 2022
Turquoise Energy News #165
covering February 2022 (Posted March 7th 2022)
Lawnhill BC Canada - by Craig Carmichael

www.TurquoiseEnergy.com = www.ElectricCaik.com = www.ElectricHubcap.com

Month In "Brief" (Project Summaries etc.)
 - My Solar Power System: 3 Years - Wind/water plant + Plastic Recycling Development

In Passing (Miscellaneous topics, editorial comments & opinionated rants)
  - Shadow Banning and Biased Narratives - Ukraine - Smol Thots (the Need to evolve Democracy) - ESD

- Detailed Project Reports -

Electric Transport - Electric Hubcap Motor Systems
* The Large, Efficient Centrifugal Clutch - thoughts

Other "Green" & Electric Equipment Projects
* CNC Table & HHO torch system
* Winter Gardening
* Vertical Axis Wind and Water Plant with plastic recycling development

Electricity Generation
* Vertical Axis Windplant (& Waterplant) & Plastic Recycling 2.0:
- Videos: Rotor as a waterplant; Plastic Recycling 2.0: Making a mold and casting a flat plate - Recessed Panels, Shingle Shapes
* My Solar Power System:
 - Three Years with Solar
 - Daily/Monthly Solar Production log et cetera - Monthly Summaries, Estimates, Notes

February in Brief

My Solar Power System: 3 Years

   I've been making electricity and logging data on my solar collection system for three years now since I got 10 solar panels up on the house (6) and the cabin (4) roofs, connected either to the grid via grid ties or to a 36 volt charge controller with batteries.
   Haida Gwaii must be one of the worst inhabited places on Earth for solar energy except - maybe - for places covered with snow almost half the year. It is far enough north and so cloudy in the winter when electricity is most needed that there is almost no collection, and cloudiness even in summer also seriously reduces the overall annual production.

Solar at the house - 11 panels with those on pole (below).
(I suppose if I was in a city someone would have stolen the ones sitting on the lawn by now!
-- except I wouldn't have dared put them there. I really should make a frame for them.)

And 4 more panels on a separate circuit at the cabin


March 2019-Feb. 2020: 2196.15 KWH Solar [used   7927 KWH from grid]
March 2020-Feb. 2021: 2069.82 KWH Solar [used 11294 KWH from grid]
March 2021-Feb. 2022: 2063.05 KWH Solar [used 10977 KWH from grid]

   The daily and monthly figures are in the "detailed report" section. I note that while the solar system accounts for only 20% of the electricity I use, it makes more than my car uses and it provides insurance of essential electricity (lights, fridge & freezer, small appliance battery charging...) in case of power failures. except in mid winter.
   In spite of adding a few more panels, collection doesn't seem to have gone up. One might suspect deterioration of the solar panels and that's probably a bit of it, but I more suspect poor use of panels and grid ties, cloudier weather, and growth of trees south of the collectors creating more shadows. The two newest panels on a pole seem to be almost always in partial shade from something or other. (I should move them, except that the pole with its cement base needs a big forklift or backhoe to move.)

   The 36 volts goes to a panel in the garage with the other equipment, accessible via "legacy" Anderson APP 70 amp connectors and the new T-Plug sockets, to a "T-Plug" triple wall plate in the living room (mainly lights) and to a high current porcelain "T-Plug" socket I made and wired under the kitchen sink, which is to plug in an inverter to run the fridge and freezers (& coffee maker) in the event of a prolonged power outage. I have only used it a couple of times. The longest outage [so far] was 25 hours. I tried it with the microwave oven once, but the inverter voltage with the heavy load was only about 105 volts AC, and the microwave seems very sensitive to voltage. In the usual time and with about the usual amount of electricity my coffee was hardly warm instead of hot.

   Presently the 36 volt battery in the garage is either the 240 amp-hour one in the Chevy Sprint car (keeps the car charged), or the third stack of the same cells (120 amp-hours).

Aluminium Aluminum Alium Alume Ali

   Sometimes something just bothers me, even if it has been common for so long. It seemed to me that four or five syllables was absurdly long for this common, lightweight element and material. Recently I tried out using "alium.". It looked okay written down, and it had that "ium" "standard" ending for an element, but spoken it seemed to me wasn't clear enough what was being talked about without an introduction, making it too hard to adopt. So I didn't use it in my videos.
  Vexingly "Alum" is already a [poorly named] sulfate compound containing the metal and so would be confusing. I finally hit on "Alume" and thought it would at least be better than all those syllables, with the least amount of "double take" when spoken.
   Then at the end of the month I heard Robert Murray Smith call it "ali" (like "alley") in a video. I can certainly go with that! Language is always evolving, although often more by subconscious processes rather than conscious direction. (Look how little Esperanto, created with conscious intent to be "the universal language", caught on.)

Wind/Water Plant

   I started the month in good hopes of making a molded polypropylene enclosure for the flowing water version of the turbine, but I didn't find as much time to work as I'd have liked, and I made a video of making the mold as I did it. That slowed things down some. And then the result wasn't very satisfactory. I had already found 1/8 inch alium was too thin - in the oven with the pressure and temperature it had warped considerably as the bottom of the circle mold. But now I found that for the large rectangle mold to make outside walls from, even 1/4 inch ali plate warped. The plastic didn't flow into the corners seemingly however long it was kept hot, and so the piece seemed to need more than 37 pounds of weights on top, yet if I added more it would warp even more.
   I went to Steve, my ali supplier, and showed him. He had worked in a plastic shop, and he said all their molds were made of steel because it was about the only thing strong enough. This surprised me, because somehow I had thought the plastic would adhere to steel and be impossible to get off. He said it didn't. He also said stainless steel would be best because it doesn't rust.
   So apparently the molds, at least larger molds, should be made of steel or stainless steel. Probably heavy 1/4 inch plate, or maybe 1/8 or 3/16 inch with reinforcing ribs. That would be fine if I had some sizable plates of steel of if I knew where to get any around here. It changed the whole picture.
   A potential advantage to steel is I could weld short sides onto a plate to make a box instead of making a frame of angle iron. Then the plastic couldn't ooze out of at the bottom. There might be some around the edges of the lid at the top, but it would have clean lower edges to cut down on the trimming.

I have now done two videos about this topic:

Evolution of a Windplant (Part 1?)

Evolution of a Windplant/Waterplant (Part 2)

Need More Lumber

   The month was running out and I had had a virtually dead spruce tree cut down and had to deal with it, so energy project work came to a halt. (I needed some more 12 foot 2" by 4"s for the rest of the cabin walls, and I needed firewood, so there was milling to do as well as firewood cutting and splitting and general branch cleanup.) (I cut the big end of the log into 12 foot slabs, 4 inches thick, with the big Alaska mill. I got my handheld bandsaw mill back to cut the 2" by 4s" from the slabs!)


   March is generally the month for starting vegetables, but thinking of the short growing season here, I got started a bit early.

   I put some dirt in the oven to sterilize it and filled some small pots. I seem to get much better results with sterilized soil. I started planting a couple every day, and putting them in my window box greenhouse. Then the weather turned cold again. For once I think I'm starting too early instead of too late.

   One interesting thing I planted was some multiplier onion seeds my brother Stuart had sent me from Toronto. He said they were from China. The seeds grew on the seed stock like clumps of little "onion sets" that one buys in a bag, but they were in fact the seeds from the stock. The shoots were out in about 3 days!
   My brother sent me some interesting onion seeds that were like clumps of little onion sets on the stalks, and they came up in about 3 days.

Two pictures of seedlings in the window greenhouse.

Giant onion seeds that grow like clumps of onion bulbs right on the stock.
Behind are some regular onion seeds planted at the same time, just poking up.

The carrots I planted in a big bucket in (?)January seem to be growing well.
They were inside under an LED light for the first month. (The 3 posts held the light up.)
(The felled tree with a couple of cut slabs can be seen out the window.)

Big Centrifugal Clutch

   I started thinking again about this project. In 2016 it hadn't had quite enough torque using the Electric Hubcap motor with a chain drive and 3 to 1 reduction. I had to set it aside back then. The blowing of the motor controller and the move to Haida Gwaii got in the way. (Can it have been 6 years?!?)
   This time the idea would be similar: put it into the Chevy Sprint between the motor and the low-losses 5 to 1 reduction planetary gear drive train. Put in the missing set of 5 springs on the other 5 'shoes'. I should think it would put out enough torque to push the car with all that.
   As it is, the car doesn't accelerate from a stop very fast, and it won't climb steeper hills. With the clutch, the top speed won't increase, but it should have the torque to do those essential things and be able to drive in normal situations with only 5 to 1 reduction.

   I dug it out and looked at it, and thought about how to fit it in under the hood. It seemed doable. Sometime, when I have time...

In Passing
(Miscellaneous topics, editorial comments & opinionated rants)

Shadow Banning and Biased Narratives

   In doing a web search, I discovered that Google couldn't find anything related to "Turquoise Energy" or "Turquoise Energy News", notwithstanding that they have been posted monthly since 2008. Startpage, which uses google's search engine annonymously, also cannot find me. Duck-duck-go can find the issues posted on my old site, sears.com/recorder/craig , but has not found any at my new site, TurquoiseEnergy.neocities.org , where every issue has been posted. So there may be two problems.
   I'm not sure what's up with neocities, but surely to be "unfindable" at sears.com when they used to turn up commonly in searches on relevant subjects, means google must be deliberately blocking search results either from saers.com or my portion of it. It's probably something(s) political I said in "In Passing" that someone disagreed with.
   Further supporting this idea, I have discovered if I put my web address in a comment under a youtube video, my comment is deleted by youtube. In fact, there are a number of web site names that cause google to delete a comment. It looks to my browser when I post it as if it had been posted, but I finally wised up when I would edit a comment, and then every time I changed something it would come back "error" -- because the comment to be edited had been deleted.

   Perhaps this is also the reason why there seemed to be a strange absence of certain things I thought people would mention in comments under my comments in various videos. Things about the solar system and green energy and batteries where I pointed people to things I have written.
   How many more ways is "big tech" clandestinely "shadow banning" and censoring free and open communication between people? It is outrageous. Democracy, social and technological progress are not built on suppression of free speech.


   Any write on this complex issue is bound to be from the limited perspective of one writer and perhaps I am mistaken in some opinions and perhaps there are mistakes. And of course "In war the first casualty is truth."

   The war in the Ukraine did not start in 2022 with the Russian attack. The fighting started in 2014 with the USA assisted (if not instigated) "regime change" in Kiev - itself an unjustified covert war - and has never ceased. This revolt was abetted by disaffected or paid (USA spent 5 billion $ total on this!) Ukrainians and apparently some well placed and accurate [American?] snipers, who shot anyone and everyone who looked like they were trying to speak up to give direction or voice to the crowd in the volatile situation in Maidan square.
   Of special background significance in all this, in 1953, Soviet leader Nikita Kruschev (himself a Ukrainian) transferred three largely Russian speaking regions from "Russia" to "Ukraine" within the Soviet Union: Crimea, Donetsk and Lugansk. At the time it was a seemingly arbitrary move for geographic and administrative reasons, but it acquired great significance when the Soviet Union broke up. With the fall of the democraticly elected government in Kiev, the three Russian speaking regions broke away.
   Over 90% of Crimeans voted to rejoin Russia, and Russia with its main western naval base there of course gladly accepted. (The USA badly wanted for them to lose that base!) In the Donbas (Donetsk and Lugansk) Russia was reluctant to take them in, or give them diplomatic recognition, when they too asked in 2014. Personally I think that was a mistake, not to do it while all was in turmoil and fluid. They quickly became a festering sore between East and West.
   The people there tried to defend their frontiers against Ukraine, but in spite of Ukraine signing the Minsk peace accord with them, the shelling and piecemeal invasions never stopped. In eight years around 14,000 people of the region have been killed including thousands of children, and 2/3 of the territory containing nearly half the population was captured by Ukraine. Russia has had to take in tens of thousands of refugees, which looked set soon to potentially swell to hundreds of thousands.
   The two entities doubtless had clandestine Russian support to hold out so long, but it wasn't enough to stop Ukrainian violence against them. Their diplomatic recognition may thus be seen as Russia having finally had enough of the ongoing troubles and the influx of refugees. (Too bad the West didn't recognize them first and tell Ukraine to lay off, and let peace prevail! But that would have taken foresight. And did or does USA really want peace?)

From a video, Here is a list of countries the USA has "intervened" in over the years,
with many successful "regime changes". Not to mention their several invasions and
occupations of distant lands this century. Ukraine should be on the list IMHO.

   In addition NATO led by the USA has pushed eastward for 30 years, repeatedly breaking its 1991 agreement with Russia not to do so, and lately with only Ukraine between NATO and Russia, has continually refused to dialogue about Russia's serious security concerns -- mostly concerning the USA's covert program in Ukraine. The USA certainly didn't like it when nuclear missiles were going to be placed next door in Cuba. It appears to me that they have pushed and pushed Ukraine to attack Donetsk and Lugansk, and pushed and pushed Russia into a corner with no good options.

   Some insightful comments by Indian Major General G.D. Bakshi (retired) - in a RepublicWorld news program on Youtube on February 28th, are worth repeating:

"The west wants to prolong the conflict as long as possible. To what end?" "It will collapse the world economy."
"It is immoral for the West to cheerlead. The West will fight Russia to the last Ukrainian."
"It is extremely unfair to put civilians with rifles against tanks. It is only Russian restraint that there hasn't been a bloodbath."
"Ukraine says only the women and children can leave the threatened cities. The men 16 to 60 must stay to fight the Russians."
"We were surprised... no artillery, no multi-barrel rocket launchers, no mass air strikes... they're just doing pinpoint strikes to avoid collateral damage."
"I salute the bravery [of the Ukrainian people], but for the leadership it is very immoral to press on with such an unequal fight in which there will only be destruction."
"The Russians have stated their aim is destruction of Ukraine's military potential. That will happen if they bring them to battle. They are taking the bait."
"Do you think it is difficult for Russia to decapitate the Ukrainian leadership? Today any time you open a mobile you[r location] can be pinpointed. You think the Russians can't send a guided air attack to take out Chilly Zelensky any time? Maybe they'll leave him in charge afterward with half of Ukraine burnt, to face the ire of the Ukrainian people?"

   Personally I think Russia needed to support the Donbas republics. The alternative at this point would be to be prepared to take in a million refugees. Ukraine's continuing violence there has now begat more violence.
   But did Russia need to invade Ukraine proper to try and kick America's stoogies out and presumably put Russian stoogies in? If they didn't want nuclear missiles aimed at them from right next door by hostile forces... then that's what it looks like.

   Unfortunately the economic disruptions attendant on the West's punitive measures appear set to accelerate and further guarantee the collapse of the financial system, food and energy supplies of the whole civilized world including of the nations imposing them.

   I pray the whole affair won't last long (unlike American invasions in the Middle East and Afghanistan... and the Saudi genocide still raging in Yemen... and other ongoing genocides), bloodshed will be minimal, food, goods and travel can start flowing again, and a better peace and harmony than that lost in 2014 will prevail throughout the region and the world.

Smol Thots

* Last month I found two species of toad that bear live young. This month I realized I missed at least two genera of the Rain Frog family (Breviceptidae) that also live on land and bear live young, Breviceps and Probreviceps.
   That strengthens the case that that was also the most likely mode of procreation of the Lystrasauridae family of the late Permian and early Triassic period. This is the family from which I suspect the reptiles evolved, some millions of years into the Triassic.

* They say that it's now the: "MICIMATT",
the "Military-Industrial-Congressional-MEDIA-Academia-Think-Tank" complex

* According to someone studying the issue, in Canada after the surge in death rates among the most elderly in spring 2020, there was a corresponding reduction in the rate in later months, and "excess deaths" overall was level for the year as a whole, indicating that Covid mostly had merely accelerated the deaths of mostly elderly people already dying of one thing or another ("co-morbidities") by a very few months.

* Huge peaceful protests by truckers, soon joined by farmers, retired police, military veterans and Canadians of many stripes from all corners of the land. The Trudeau government passed dictates to try and force most Canadians to take injections of a highly experimental vaccine formula whose benefit to risk ratio is seen by a substantial percentage of the population to be less than one, as well as lower than some effective preexisting oral medications. It will hurt Canada-USA trade, and after being hailed as "heros" for keeping working through the uncertain time when it was unknown how bad the disease would get, many had finally just had enough of travel restrictions in their work and being told what to do, even with their own bodies -- and many other Canadians are not far behind them.
   On youtube on the 10th I heard our prime minister himself say that Canadians have the right to protest and have our voices heard. These are fine principles and words. How loudly must how many millions yell, and for how long, before they are in fact heard by him? This is not the sort of Canadian government we used to know.
   Half the provinces however, did hear and eased or eliminated their restrictions and "mandates", so the demonstration was not fruitless. And it has inspired similar movements in USA and Australia. Last I saw trucks were rendezvousing outside of Washington DC.

* The mass media have gone out of their way to trivialize and demonize this peaceful mass movement, which is surely by far the largest political mobilization ever seen in Canadian history. Trudeau himself explained why, on camera no less. Basicly he said the government gets good treatment from the press because they paid CBC 600 million dollars to give them good press. So CBC can tell us lies for big profit, or be harassed, demonized and go broke. One suspects journalists of integrity have long since left, leaving those who can read a script full of lies and misinformation on camera with a smile for good pay. This is not the CBC we used to know.
   If you want to get a reasonably accurate picture of what's going on in the world, go on line. For example Youtube, Rumble, Zerohedge as well as many and various international news sites and sites of individual journalists. There are different views and honest opinions on many and varied issues, often by experts and specialists and those involved in the affairs in question. And there are usually comments underneath allowing readers to say what they think of the presentation, which can on occasion be as eye opening as the work itself.
   Contrast that with all the mass media outlets mostly owned by the same very few individuals, all with one voice and telling you exactly the same story often word for word the same on all networks, implying that what they say is the only truth and all you need to know, and often giving no sources, allowing no comments, and telling the story with stock footage we're supposed to believe is from the actual event. Of course there are shysters on line too, and one must always use one's own discernment whatever the source.

* According to one report (The Richardson Post, February 17th 2022), Trudeau himself profits immensely from the vaccine. (This is readily believable with the several previous reportings of corrupt dealings by Trudeau.) It explains how long the planning has gone on and how deep the roots have grown. Trudeau has ordered 400 million doses of vaccines, at profit to himself. That's TEN injections for each Canadian! This might help explain why he won't correct the disastrous course of the ship of state. Has he sold his soul for money? Is Trudeau guilty of betrayal of public trust? Are similar pathetic motivations in play in Europe, Australia and New Zealand?

* The senate vetoed or was about to veto extension of the Emergencies Act (formerly known as the War Measures Act). Suddenly Trudeau says the emergency is over and he's canceling the state of emergency. Big of him! No mention of the senate.

* Why have so many nations taken such similar dictatorial measures? Why are so many of the most eminent doctors and scientists worldwide indiscriminately and ruthlessly being silenced from the internet by "big tech"? (Why can Turquoise Energy News no longer be found in a Google powered web search?) Are all our western governments and major companies taking their orders from some "higher authority" instead of being themselves the highest authority? It certainly feels that way.
   Martin Armstrong and others have named and explained that "authority": Klaus Schwab and the World Economic Forum. Evidently Mr. "You will own nothing and be happy" Schwab has even boasted about his protegés being at the heads of several major governments, including "half the Canadian cabinet". It is said they all ran a simulation of what would happen if there was a pandemic shortly prior to Covid. Perhaps Klaus, the WEF and the whole Davos crowd should bear some investigative scrutiny on behalf of the rest of us?

* Sweden and various other countries apparently didn't get the message. They never locked down or made mandates and have had no more Covid than anyone else, and in fact Sweden has now declared the pandemic to be over. In Western Europe: Denmark, Norway, Netherlands, Switzerland and Portugal have erased most restrictions. And England. Japan has dropped "mandates" as has Israel. (How is it I often hear of such things on my rare visits to French or Spanish language news sites? We English "don't need to know?" Great multi-language translator: Deepl.com )


* In a democracy Ultimate Authority rests with the citizens. Surely there are more simple, more effective ways for people to assert their authority than to protest en masse that those they chose to represent themselves are not doing what is wanted?
   We must move to positive means and social mechanisms for citizen planning and control. Citizens must have established channels through which to choose directions far beyond electing a new representative every few years, and those elected must know through those channels and respond to what their citizens have chosen. They should be the leaders that coordinate to give effect to what has been chosen, not arbitrary rulers who decide by themselves what directions are to be taken. That was (perhaps) good enough 200 years ago when citizens had but few interactions with their governments, not today.

* This brings us back to the need to evolve a "third stage democracy" where small local groups of citizens can get together, study an issue carefully, and make recommendations. Where these groups are formed in many localities, their findings can be sorted on line and the best combined recommendations and plans forwarded to the applicable government. These, having come essentially as the best consensus of the whole of the more thoughtful groups of citizens who are most familiar and concerned with each subject, will carry more weight than lobbyists and corporate interests.
   The name given to such groups is unimportant. They can be a "Local Social Sustainability Design Team" as originally proposed (IMHO a confusing and poorly descriptive name), or a "Public Committee" as I recently suggested, or a "Societal Direction Group", or any of a number of other possible appellations. Individual names are likely to include the subject under consideration, such as maybe "Victoria Traffic Planning Public Committee" or "Northern BC Dairy Directions Society" and so on and so on.

* There are of course other steps that need to be taken to ensure the integrity of the whole political process, which is being subverted by today's power hungry, profiteering oligarchy who want nothing changed in the fossilized systems that they know how to game to provide themselves with immense power, wealth and control over others. Such power vacuums that they find and fill must be eliminated by the creation of mechanisms that allow for the public to make the important decisions, and where representative government coordinates the whole and enacts the people's will without leading eventually to an entrenched oligarchy.

   Again, such a public process of decision making allows the many minds of those most concerned with any and every subject to seek the best solutions to society's many problems and needs, instead of leaving everything to a few politicians who are not intimately concerned with, affected by nor interested in, most of them. The many heads of those most concerned can choose better social directions than a few representatives who in their absence are likely to listen to whatever for-profit company is putting its own agenda in their ears.

Here is an evolving "Book" on line about creating 3rd stage democracies

paper- Stage 3 Democracies -- A Design-Build Project ‚ 53.08 by Daniel Raphael


(And his many other works of progressive thought:)


(Eccentric Silliness Department)

* Just 28 days? Notwithstanding that that is the actual period of the moon's orbit, what happened to the rest of the moonth?

* I thought there were no Koalas except in Australia. But Koala Lumpur is in Malaysia. Apparently the little beasties managed to cross the straits somewhere.

* Trucker convoys demonstrating against heavy-handed government edicts in several countries now... How can trucks make a convoy? I thought a convoy was ships? Shouldn't they be caravans? (or is that only camels?)

* The Precambrian Period was before there was multicelluar animal life on Earth. The Precambian period was before my sister in law told me about Cambia, a powder medication for the worst migraines that even Sumotriptan doesn't cure.

   "in depth reports" for each project are below. I hope they may be useful to anyone who wants to get into a similar project, to glean ideas for how something might be done, as well as things that might have been tried, or just thought of and not tried... and even of how not to do something - why it didn't work or proved impractical. Sometimes they set out inventive thoughts almost as they occur - and are the actual organization and elaboration in writing of those thoughts. They are thus partly a diary and are not extensively proof-read for literary perfection, consistency, completeness and elimination of duplications before publication. I hope they may add to the body of wisdom for other researchers and developers to help them find more productive paths and avoid potential pitfalls and dead ends.

Electric Transport

The Large, Efficient Centrifugal Clutch

   I started thinking about this idea/project again. I wondered if it had really needed the planetary gear to magnify the effects at lower RPMs, or if it just needed the set of springs where they were never installed on the shoes on one side. More likely to move a vehicle it would need to be bigger for more torque -- a bigger diameter and or wider with more shoes to engage in the drum. It had had a 3 to 1 chain reduction following the clutch and didn't really work in 2016. If the uninstalled springs on half the shoes had increased the torque it might have worked sufficiently but probably would still have been marginal. I'm going to guess that 3 to 1 just wasn't quite enough reduction.
   I went back and reviewed TE News #98, March 2016 where my previous notes were. Considering all the effort I had put into making and trying it, the write-up wasn't very enlightening. I had noted that it was rather noisy. I trust that could be reduced to "not irritating" for a production model.

   This time there's a highly efficient 5 to 1 planetary gearset straight to the CV shaft. The centrifugal clutch would probably only need to provide half as much torque to work with this configuration. With the clutch before the reducing gearset, the car wouldn't go any faster than now, but if it worked well it would surely accelerate faster and climb the hills it doesn't have the torque for presently with this small motor and drive ratio. That would be a considerable improvement in practical usability!

   What had brought all the 2016 experiments to a halt was the shorting out of the motor's power wires and consequent burning out of the Kelly motor controller I had installed for my Electric hubcap motor. (Keep the wires apart and or keep them well immobilized! Don't trust insulation alone to separate wires subject to vibrating against each other or against another metal part!) The motor and controller had worked really well up to that point other than the motor getting hot quite quickly at high currents. After that the move to Haida Gwaii got in the way of resumption.
   I'd order another Kelly controller, except I have this "new" plan for the bigger, unipolar "Electric Hubcap" motor perhaps with permanent magnet assist, and it will need a special motor controller... Someday?

   A concern with the clutch (my construction) is I never liked the side plate of the drum being clipped onto the drum with a few bolts. That never struck me as mechanicly robust, but it seemed to be the best I could come up with. Now I know someone who welds ali, and my neighbor has a lathe that would hold the whole clutch. I could make an ali disk and have it welded onto the drum, then true the center mounting on the lathe.
   In addition, it seems the HHO torch with propane can solder/weld/braze ali. The HHO provides sufficient heat with a neutral flame, and adding the propane makes the flame oxygen deficient ("reducing") so the ali won't oxidize. And this month I saw a video wherein the HHO gas was bubbled through methyl hydrate (after being bubbled through water as a flashback arrestor), and it picked up enough CH3OH vapor to make it a reducing flame without propane. That sounded really promising too. So maybe I could do my own ali welding (or is that brazing or soldering)?
   But maybe I should see how well the clutch works and make improvements if it does, or at least if it looks promising.

   I went into the shop and found the centrifugal clutch. I was afraid parts of it would be scattered everywhere, but it was all together except the center hubs, which would have to be custom per installation. I found a 7/8" center SD taper lock hub to attach the drum to a 22mm shaft into the planetary gear. It shouldn't be too hard to attach the inner drive disk to the motor.

   What I at first thought would be valuable is some way to put in a bearing or bronze bushing to center the drive disk inside the outer drum. I went out to the shop and found a bearing that might do the job. The 7/8" motor shaft extension could extend through the drive plate to the 7/8" inside of this bearing. With the bearing thus centered on the motor shaft, I could turn a piece to attach to the drum, to hold the outside of the bearing centered in the drum. That should do it.

   Looking under the hood again, there seems to be enough room, but a double plate will be needed, an enclosure about 5 inches between plates that are solidly connected around the outside to each other and to the car, with the present planetary gear on the left one as is, the motor moved over to attach to the right one, and the centrifugal clutch in between the plates.
   Unlike the less innovative fixed reduction drive to the right wheel, adding the big centrifugal clutch would be rather innovative - a more unique and worthy project to lavish time and energy on.

   A custom plate arrangement, remounting a rear support, remounting the motor, a little piece turned on the lathe to center the bearing... lots of fiddly custom fabrication here! If I start on this (or might I say return to it after 5 years?), I'm likely to lose my focus on the wind/water plants!

[19th] Hmm... The gearset is attached to the plate and the drum is attached to the gearset shaft. The drive rotor is attached to the motor shaft and the motor will be attached to the same assembly. So if the plates are properly aligned, there should be no need for a bearing inside the clutch to align the two parts.
   Then, the motor aligns to a center hole and attaches to just 2 bolts on opposite sides of center. So the second plate doesn't need to be a big round plate, just a wide bar coupled to the main plate at each end, long enough to fit the clutch drum in the middle (>10"). (The main plate is already larger than 10" and has a choice of bolt holes to use around the periphery.)
   Well, this is getting somewhat simpler now... somewhat. I just might go for it.

Other "Green" & Electric Equipment Projects

CNC Table & Oxyhydrogen (HHO) Torch

   One fine day perhaps around mid month I decided to put the HHO generator, torch and power supply together. I set the pieces out and fitted one hose, but then I couldn't find the torch I had bought. Where had I put it in all my clutter? First I thought it was in a black plastic case but couldn't find that, so I went back to my orders on AliExpress and found that it was actually a light colored wooden box. I couldn't find that either. By the end of the month, I still hadn't found it.

   Where, logicly, would I have put it? Beats me! It must be around in plain sight somewhere. I wouldn't have tried to hide it! What a silly thing to have block work on a project for weeks!

Electricity Storage

[No Reports]

Electricity Generation

Vertical Axis Wind and Water Plant
with plastic recycling development

   After the first couple of days of February I couldn't seem to find time for project work for almost a week. One day I did take a blade down to Lawn Creek and then the ocean. In the creek one could see where the water built up at the front at various angles of rotation and feel the forces acting on the blade. I might well hope for 100 watts from the smallest of units in a shallow creek at a fast spot.
   On the beach I turned it horizontal. I conceived that something like a "scoop" at just the right height could be used to catch water as (or before) the waves broke, and turn a water wheel. It worked well when a wave came along, but that seemed disappointingly seldom, many seconds passing by between waves. Still, I couldn't go out far for fear of filling my boots with frigid water. Larger scoops out a little deeper might catch a good bit of power. I decided that flowing water was a better bet for getting a good amount of energy without a large structure.

More plastic molding

[8th] I loaded the circle mold with 555g PP and put it in the oven for 75 minutes. Instead of opening the door immediately, I left it closed of 15 more minutes. Even if the peak temperature overall (260°C) was attained at the time I unplugged the oven, the plastic could still be flowing for a while. Sure enough, when I did open the door the temperature of the mold was still well over 200°C, and more plastic had reached and plugged up more of the cracks around the rim. After another 15 with the door open I unscrewed the depth & pilot hole screws.
   Later it had cooled and I opened it. I had hoped to get even thickness all the way around by not having too much PP in the mold. Instead the melt and flow seemed good, but 555 grams didn't quite seem to fill everywhere. Back to 600+ for the next try! ...and with the 15 extra minutes to continue flowing after turning the oven off!

[9th] I added rope bits to make 627g and tried again hoping for a complete fill. This time when 75 minutes was up, the temperature reader showed the outside of the mold as being 234-240°. I unplugged the oven but left the door closed, and to my surprise after 15 more minutes, the mold measured around 253-258°. It had continued to heat up even with the oven turned off!
   I was working after dark, and the stove was turned away from the porch light. The hot oven seemed to stink much more than I remembered. When I went to take the mold out I again needed the flashlight - it was magnetic and for lack of anywhere else had I stuck it to the roof of the oven when I was loading the mold and putting the weights on it. Oops! I hadn't taken it out! I got another flashlight and looked in. The first one was a gooey, stinking blob draped over the edge of the mold. The largest weight had some sort of thick liquid bubbling away on top of it. Melting plastic. I undid the depth screws, put the weights back into the oven (I keep them there) and closed it, and left the mold outside overnight.

[10th] The next morning I opened it and found everything had gone wrong. It was much thicker at one end than the other, there were voids galore, and instead of shrinking a little it had cracked in multiple places. It seemed the overflow around the edge of the lid disk was enough to grip the plastic and prevent the edges from shrinking toward the center. Yikes!
   This can only work as a real production method if the results are reasonably good and consistent. I had once again neglected to spray on the silicone lube. I know it makes a difference to the ease of removing the part. Would it make the difference?

   These vexations aside and assuming things will improve, I wondered if I could put a blade and a circle into the oven at the same time? The circle mold isn't very tall and the blade mold might just fit on another rack above it. 75 minutes at 2240 watts is quite a bit of juice to burn, and it takes the better part of 2 hours per piece. Getting 2 pieces done in not so much more time and no more power would be good.

   Next I started thinking about the frame pieces. A "water power unit" didn't have to be anything like as big as a wind wall. I could see making it as a 22" by 22" square, 17" thick, with 17" by 22" pieces. That's the largest size I can cast in the oven. For anything bigger I need to make that larger oven. I have the long, low steel box, but I'd like to not add that project to the "must do next" list for now.

   I cut down the circle so it fit easily into the mold and added the cut or broken off pieces. I cleaned up and sprayed the inside of the mold. I thought that if it got so hot after the heat was turned off I'd shorten the burn to 70 minutes. But when the time ended the temperature probe said it was already 286-288°C! Given that I decided to leave it for just 6 more minutes instead of 15. It was already down to 245°. I opened the door and looked, and I could see it was still thicker on one side than the other. WHY? I threw another 9 pound weight on top of those already on the high side, then waited just 10 more minutes before removing the weights and pulling it out onto the open door to remove the screws... and discovering that this time I had forgotten to do them up. (How could I put the weights on and not notice that? ...first time for everything!) No need to search for explanations of it being lop sided this time!
   So instead I did them up. The plastic was still very soft and they went in easily. None of them hit bottom anyway! By now I had weights just on the high side and it seemed to be equalizing. Apparently they're getting plenty hot - they just need lots of time - maybe 20 minutes - for the plastic to ooze over to where it needs to go. I unscrewed the scews again as it was hardening, and I cut the still soft surplus that had come out around the lip so there would be no big chunks above the lid to prevent the edges from shrinking away toward the middle. Some of it glued together again, but it was enough. One crack had filled up, but the two halves had still not fused well. The rest was good except still lop-sided, and there were still a few smaller voids. It might need a counterweight on the light end, but I would use it - on a prototype or sample.

   Later I went out to the shop and started putting the first water rotor together. It was to have been the wind rotor, but I cut the blades down to 4.5" tall. It should spin in a shallow creek.
   I put a pipe flange with a pipe sticking out to act as a top shaft. I had to put the flange on the inside so the pipe would stick through the hole and center it. To have the flat face of the flange against the top of the "spool" I had to thread the pipe into the "wrong" side of the flange. It only went in about one turn. I tightened it as best I could. I made the rotor to turn counterclockwise so that it would tend to tighten the shaft rather than unscrew it.

[13th] I finished up the rotor (3 more bolts). I stuck a rod through the center pipe (washer and nut so it couldn't come off the bottom). I took it down to Lawn creek. I found a "fast" spot stuck the rod down to the bottom, so the rotor floated down until it was pretty much submerged. It hardly turned. The creek had the sound of running water and seemed to be going so fast from up close, but I started to realize that it wasn't even flowing a meter per second except where it rush over a log or rock, and there it was only an inch deep.
   It seemed that just sticking the unit in a creek wasn't going to make much electricity. The water had to be concentrated into a narrow channel so it had both speed and volume. I went down to the culverts where the creek passed under the highway. There were two about 4 feet in diameter. At the entrance to the culvert the water really sucked in and the rotor turned. But not as much as I expected. Then I went across to the exit. The water picked up speed through the sloped culverts and sprayed out in a torrent at about 3+ meters per second. (The other larger pipe seemed a little faster (4m/s?) and had more flow. The water there was too deep to get close to it.) There was the power! The rotor turned strongly at the bottom end of the smaller one, but not very smoothly as each blade alternately blocked and channeled the water. I figure it will be better when the stationary steering vane of the housing is in place.
   The biggest thing this showed was the the unit would have to be not only quite sturdy, but solidly mounted in place to handle the strong forces acting on it.

   One day at Jungle creek I noted a fairly deep, narrow area on the beach that seemed to be flowing about 3-4 meters per second over a couple of meters. The rotor should have turned well there. But high tide would cover that spot, and it has to have rained recently for the creek to have that much water.

Plastic Recycling 2.0 Video

   At this point, I should mention that I started shooting a video as I worked to explain the plastic recycling process for all and sundry on youtube. The entrance barrier to recycling plastic this way is far lower than the typical techniques of PreciousPlastic.com , especially in not having to buy/build a plastic shredder before starting anything else. Even the gravity squash, oven heated molds are much simpler, albeit they are the most difficult part and it's worth spending time to make a mold well, since every part will bear the mold's "stamp".

[14th] I wanted to make a rectangular mold to make the pieces for the frame of the box or wall, 16.5" by 22". I'd have liked to make them a little larger (maybe about 19" by 24") but that was the biggest that would fit in the oven. Rather than have to make the new larger oven, I decided to go with "barely big enough". I got two pieces of 1/4" ali from Steve, since experience had shown thinner pieces are prone to warping, and a 10 foot piece of 2" by 2" ali angle. I wasn't sure what I was going to do for the edges (this is not a place where one can run down to "Metal Supermarket" and pick up what you want), but after he cut the top and bottom pieces Steve asked me what I was going to do for edges and I said "Ideally..." and it turned out he had some! Lots of it, in fact. If I should want to make the oven and the larger enclosure for the "Wind Wall" I can probably get another piece or two from him. (Cost was 170$ for the 3 pieces -- at an older price for the metal and not very much for Steve's cutting.)

   I spent about 3 hours trying to make the two pieces just the same size with square, straight edges. The results weren't as good as one might wish - the sizes weren't close enough and the corners weren't very square in spite of all my trimming with a fine blade on the skill saw and an angle grinder. I thought to clamp them together with C-clamps and get the edges the same on both at once to at least get them the same size, but I had had it with bending over them and grinding for the day.
   I also had the thought that the CNC table with the HHO gas torch would have done a near perfect job with much less effort on my part. With the CNC table finally running, maybe I should have spent the 3 hours working on putting together the HHO torch?

[17th] I had forgotten a tool for sculpting, smoothing and straightening the edges of the ali plates: the bench belt sander! Sure enough, a 36 grit sanding belt took down the slightly larger plate to the size of the other and made the edges smoother without being painfully laborious.
   I had also wondered how to cut the corners of the side pieces - match ends at 45° or make some pattern to put screws straight into? I eventually had the thought to make them "dovetail" like good wooden drawers. (Just one "dovetail" per corner.) One screw should then hold each corner pretty securely with little leakage of melted plastic.

[18th] I cut the ali "angle iron" into lengths and cut the angles and dovetails, then sanded and filed each end of each piece until the frame fit together. I slipped the bottom piece into the frame and it all fit perfectly except there was a bit more gap between the bottom and the ends than I liked, almost 1/16th of an inch. That's what I get for cutting the pieces a mm extra "just in case". Once the dovetail joins are made, they can't be adjusted in that direction.

Angle frame and bottom plate of rectangle mold

[21st] I had been wondering how to keep the box together solid in the oven, and thinking of screws through the angle irons into the bottom, or maybe with some joiner pieces. Then I thought to use springs around the whole outside. I found a couple in my spring drawer, and used a couple of coat hangers as wires between them.

[23rd] I put 1100g of ropes in the mold, the mold in the oven, ~37 pounds of weights on top (all four big ones), and heated it for 70 minutes. The temperature was only 200°C so I left it another 15 minutes. About 225°. But I could see some PP coming out at the left edge (those big cracks!), so I turned the oven off. After another 15 (210°) there was now also some at the opposite edge, but it looked like there would be void corners. I left it another 15. (195°) I still didn't see any coming out at the corners. By now it was cooling, but it still seemed gooey to the screwdriver and hope springs eternal! Another 15 minutes (180°): total 115 minutes, 45 after the heat was shut off. One corner at least was filled. The fact that it took so long suggests that I should be using more weight. It's a big surface area.
   Anyway the 1100 grams was just a first estimate. There might not be enough plastic for a solid fill however long it was melted. I would have to look at the piece to see.
   I am wondering if the fact that this mold takes up most of the area across the oven in all directions keeps the heat underneath from getting above the mold? Maybe it's mostly heating it from below.
   Insufficient plastic indeed proved to be the reason for the void corners. After I trimmed around the edges it was a good piece if one wanted to cut a smaller rectangel from it (or needed an odd shape), but it was thin over a broad area and had lots of little bubbles that hadn't been forced out. Maybe about 1400 grams next time? But this piece took around 3 hours and I had had enough for the day.

   In filming for the video I seem to have neglected to take still pictures of most of this work.

Recessed Panels, Shingle Shapes

   It occurred to me that flat panels don't have to be the same thickness throughout. Like many doors they could be thick around the edges for strength and thinner in the middle. The simple way to do that might be to lay a plate of ali inside the bottom of the mold to occupy much of the space in the center, leaving maybe a 1 inch lip full height around the outside edges. Such a plate would have sufficiently tapered [and polished] edges that it would pop out easily as the cooling plastic shrinks. And the sloped edge hollow would look nice. (It is assumed that the weights are removed from the mold and any screws sticking through the plastic are unscrewed while it cools.)
   Alternatively, or to have an indent in each face, a similar plate could be screwed onto the center of the lid. Then one might have a 3/4" thick frame around a 1/4" thick face. That would make robust but lightweight frame panels, using less plastic. The larger the panel, the more it would be worth doing.
   Another idea is that by using machine screws of different lengths (or not screwing them all the way in) on could make tapered pieces, thin wedges. The only use for this that comes to mind is for roofing or wall shingles.

Big rectangle sheets: Troubles getting an even fill, getting the corners to fill, and with warping.
Left: 1100g - not enough plastic.
Right was 1400 - piece is thicker, just didn't fill to corners and warped badly cooling out of the mold.

[24th] Since 1100 grams hadn't filled the mold, I tried again with 1400 grams. I plugged in the oven and set the timer for 75 minutes. The top of the mold only measured a little over 200°C, but I thought that if I left it in the oven it would spread out. Wrong. It was still extra thick in the middle and didn't reach the corners. With Videoing, 75(heat)+30(no heat)+15(door open)= 120 minutes plus a walk on the beach while it was cooling making it over 2-1/2 hours, I had had enough for the day. Sigh! I put it back in the oven and set it all up.
   Next time I'll be sure the temperature measures at least 225° before I shut the oven off. Another 10 minutes surely would have done it. However long it takes.

[25th] I tried again. This time I ran the oven 85 minutes and the temperature reached 220-225°. But it still didn't fill the corners. In addition, the center was bulged up a bit so the plastic was thicker there. Furthermore, I hadn't screwed the screws back in after the first try, yet the piece wasn't thin anywhere. And more than I like had oozed out the end cracks. The thicker center plus the plastic oozed out explained why there wasn't more material to fill the corners. And yet, one expects everything should have been filled, which tends to suggest that 37 pounds on top wasn't enough weight.
   I decided I needed to rethink larger molds. If even 1/4" thick ali would warp, the bottom would probably sag if there was more weight on top. I started to think that what it needed was steel plates instead. And probably 1/4" thick even at that.

Steel Molds

[26th] I went to talk to Steve, my source of ali, again. I said that even 1/4 inch plate ali had warped in the oven when it was a big piece, and that maybe I should put in a steel plate on the bottom for strength and a thin piece of ali on top so the plastic wouldn't stick. He had worked at a plastic shop before and he said all their molds were made of steel because it was strong enough - and that plastics are oily enough that they don't stick to steel. Somehow I had simply assumed they would. Epoxy won't stick to ali, but it will stick to steel as it cures. PP isn't epoxy and it melts/freezes, not cures.

   This changes things! Apparently I should be making all my oven molds out of steel, not ali. And steel being weldable, perhaps I should make boxes with the sides welded to the bottom to prevent oozing through the cracks and possible drips, instead of make angle iron frames. Now, where was I going to get steel plate and strips? I had a few bits of plate from the woodstove I took apart in about 2014. Those wouldn't go far - and they were supposed to be for Electric Hubcap motor rotors. And I had a fair bit of bed frame angle iron, but it wasn't very tall as an edge wall. It seemed unlikely there'd be scraps of plate big enough for larger molds at the refuse station.
    Anyway, there was the situation at the end of the month. The new mold wasn't turning out satisfactory parts for the enclosures and I needed to work something else out.

My Solar Power System

   The 31st was sunny, and it occurred to me that the cabin solar now had 1220W of panels driving a 700W grid tie. There was just 470W being made in the still low winter sun, but soon the inverter would be limiting the power output, if it wasn't already. I took the old 1000W inverter back out and re-installed it, and put two panels (610W) on each. I know the Y-Solar "1000W" inverters work best with the lightest load, but it occurs to me I could add another panel for 1525W at the cabin and still be under the rating for both inverters. I don't suppose the dual installation made much difference to the day's production, much less to the month's. (Now if only there wasn't a travel trailer and an RV with 1100W of electric heaters plugged in down there, using far more than is ever made by the sun in winter!)
   If I do get around to installing more panels, I'd like to mount them more upright to get more fall-winter-spring production, instead of just the easy mounting: bolting them flat on the 15° slope roof. And I'd most like to try putting some on the roof at the north end of the east garage, where I think there's the least tree shade of anywhere available. Perhaps a wooden frame to hold them, bolted to the rafters?

Daily/Monthly/Yearly Log of Solar Power Generated [and grid power consumed]

(All times are in PST: clock 48 minutes ahead of sun, not PDT which is an hour and 48 minutes ahead. (DC) battery system power output readings are reset to zero daily (often just for LED lights, occasionally used with other loads: Electric car, inverters in power outages or other 36V loads), while the grid tied readings are cumulative.)

Solar: House, Trailer, (.DC@house)  => total KWH [grid power meter reading(s)@time] Sky conditions
Km = electric car drove distance, then car was charged.

31st 2476.23, 0021.86, .00 => 6.04 [92589@18:00] SUNNY! all day. (& cold.) Frost melted only where sun hit it.

01st 2477.73, 0022.23, .00 => 1.87 [92626@19:30, 55Km] No sunny. Cold, frost.
02d  2479.95, 0022.83, .23 => 3.05 [92680@18:00] cloudy but warmer - +9°
03rd 2480.42, 0022.89, .03 => 0.56 [92729@21:30; 55Km] Rain. Fog.
04th 2482.85, 0024.06, .00 => 3.60 [92770@21:30]
05th 2484.15, 0024.81, .27 => 2.32 [92807@17:00; 55Km] Cloudy,
06th 2485.71, 0025.66, .00 => 2.41 [92849@117:00] & cloudy
07th 2487.86, 0026.99, .27 => 3.75 [92885@17:30] A bit of sun.
08th 2489.01, 0027.80, .27 => 2.23 [92928@21:00] A bit.
09th 2490.58, 0028.92, .24 => 2.93 [92959@17:30; 55Km] ~+10°
10th 2493.09, 0030.37, .13 => 4.09 [93008@18:00]
11th 2497.63, 0031.93, .00 => 5.10 [90Km; 93046@17:00] Frost AM. 5°. Sunny!
12th 2498.40, 0032.16, .17 => 1.17 [60Km; 93098@17:30] Nothing like sunny. 7°
13th 2498.90, 0032.26, .13 => 0.73 [93139@17:00] Clouds, fog.
14th 2503.55, 0035.29, .00 => 7.68 [93173@19:00] Totally Sunny all day!
15th 2504.82, 0035.79, .00 => 1.77 [50Km; 93224@18:00]
16th 2508.36, 0037.73, .00 => 5.48 [55Km; 93265@18:30] Mostly sunny again! hit ~+9°
17th 2509.95, 0038.63, .10 => 2.59 [93293@18:00]
18th 2511.24, 0039.46, .29 => 2.41 [85Km; 93337@19:00] Another dreary day. With some rain in eve.
19th 2513.86, 0041.10, .13 => 4.39 [100Km; 93367@18:30]
20th 2518.13, 0042.43, .02 => 5.62 [93410@25:30] Some bright sun around noon gave over 1600W at house at least for a few moments (new record!). Meanwhile the AC connection to the new 700W inverter at the cabin seemed to have a bad connection which I discovered and fixed just before it got cloudy. At its own "weatherproof" AC screw-on connector - I put some dielectric grease in.
21st 2521.96, 0044.71, .47 => 6.58 [55Km; 93441@18:00] Some birght sun in early PM. In some power transition plugging into the Sprint car, the fing PowMr reset itself to its factory specs (to lead-acids) and was trying to overcharge the car. Then since it was trying to charge it to over 40V (14.4V * 3 = 43.2V [YOW!] if it managed it), if it got confused again it would think it was a 48 volt system instead of 36 and REALLY try and fry everything - the batteries and potentially my house. They're great charge controllers when they're working right.
22d  2526.05, 0046.58, .00 => 5.96 [55Km; 93479@18:00]
23rd 2527.83, 0047.11, .00 => 2.47 [93523@18:00]
24th 2532.15, 0048.90, .00 => 6.11 [93557@18:00] +6.5°.  All but 2500 watts when sun came out around noon! It's not even summer! (but light clouds, mist & fog much of the day).
25th 2533.96, 0049.43, .00 => 2.34 [?] Power out late eve.
26th 2534.87, 0049.78, .25 => 1.51 [93618@7:00AM; 55Km; 93636@17:30] Rain,howing wind (since yest.eve.) very dark.
27th 2538.48, 0051.60, .32 => 5.75 [65Km; 93669@18:30]
28th 2542.86, 0053.95, .00 => 6.73 [93707@16:30]

01st 2546.42, 0056.17, .27 => 6.05 [55Km; 93735@18:00]
02nd2550.90, 0058.57, .00 => 6.88 [93759@20:00] -- wanted to put out newsletter here
03rd 2554.75, 0060.72, .00 => 6.00 [93784@18:30]
04th 2559.40, 0063.67, .08 => 7.68 [93809@19:00]
05th 2561.21, 0064.70, .20 => 3.04 [55Km; 93848@19:00] The bad days in March are like the good days in December.
06th 2566.67, 0068.32, .07 => 9.15 [65Km; 93881@18:00]
07th 2568.99, 0068.97, .13 => 3.10 [93917@18:30] -- finally got to it here! What happened?

Daily KWH from solar panels. (Compare February 2022 with February 2021 & with February 2021.)

Days of
__ KWH
January 2022 (15 solar
panels: but just 5 clear
of snow until 9th)
February 2022
(15 sol.panels - 2
mostly in shade)
February 2021
(12 solar panels)














Total KWH
Km Driven
on Electricity
591 Km (~100 KWH?)
(rear brakes dragging!)
893.8 Km
(~130 KWH?)

Monthly Summaries: Solar Generated KWH [& Power used from grid KWH]

March 1-31: 116.19 + ------ + 105.93 = 222.12 KWH - solar [786 KWH used from grid]
April - 1-30: 136.87 + ------ + 121.97 = 258.84 KWH [608 KWH]
May  - 1-31: 156.23 + ------ + 147.47 = 303.70 KWH [543 KWH] (11th solar panel connected on lawn on 26th)
June - 1-30: 146.63 + 15.65 + 115.26 = 277.54 KWH [374 KWH] (36V, 250W Hot Water Heater installed on 7th)
July  - 1-31: 134.06 + 19.06 + 120.86 = 273.98 KWH [342 KWH]
August 1-31:127.47 + 11.44+91.82+(8/10)*96.29 = 307.76 KWH [334 KWH] (12th solar panel connected on lawn Aug. 1)
Sept.- 1-30: 110.72 + 15.30 + 84.91 = 210.93 KWH   [408 KWH] (solar includes 2/10 of 96.29)
Oct.  - 1-31:  55.67 + 13.03 + 51.82 = 120.52 KWH, solar [635 KWH used from grid]
Nov. - 1-30:  36.51 +   6.31 + 26.29 =   69.11 KWH, solar [653 KWH used from grid]
Dec.  - 1-23: 18.98 +   .84* + 11.70 =   31.52 KWH, solar + wind [711 KWH + 414 (while away) = 1125 from grid]

Jan.  - 6-31: 17.52 + ------* + 10.61  =  28.13 KWH, solar+ wind [1111 KWH from grid]
Feb.  - 1-29: 56.83 + ------* + 35.17  =  92.00 KWH, solar + wind [963 KWH from grid]
* The solar DC system was running the kitchen hot water tank. Now it's only running a couple of lights - not (usually) worth reporting. So there's just the 2 grid tie systems: house and "roof over travel trailer".
One year of solar!
March - 1-31: 111.31 +   87.05 = 198.37 KWH solar total  [934 KWH from grid]
April   - 1-30: 156.09 + 115.12 = 271.21 [784 KWH from grid]
May    - 1-31: 181.97 + 131.21 = 313.18 KWH Solar [723 KWH from grid]
June   - 1-30: 164.04 + 119.81 = 283.82 KWH Solar [455 KWH from grid]
July    - 1-31: 190.13 + 110.05 = 300.18 KWH Solar [340 KWH from grid]
August- 1-31: 121.81 + 83.62   = 205.43 KWH Solar [385KWH from Grid]
Sept.  - 1-30: 110.68 + 65.09   = 175.77 KWH Solar [564 KWH used from grid]
Oct.  -   1-31:   67.28 + 42.55   = 109.83 KWH Solar [1360 KWH from grid -- Renters!]
Nov.  -  1-30:   35.70  + 20.79  = 56.49 KWH of Solar [1301 KWH from grid]
Dec.  -  1-31:   19.78  + 11.31  = 31.09 KWH Solar [1078 KWH used from grid]

Jan.   -  1-31:   25.47 + 18.58  = 44.05 KWH Solar [1185 KWH used from grid]
Feb.   -  1-28:   47.18 + 33.22  = 80.40 KWH Solar [1121 KWH used from grid]
Two years of solar!
March - 1-31:   81.73 +  55.22 + 2.2 (DC) = 139.15 KWH Solar [1039 KWH grid]
April  -  1-30: 161.83 + 112.35 + .44(DC)  = 274.62 KWH Solar [680 KWH from grid]
May   -  1-31: 156.25 +  97.22 + 1.29(DC) = 254.76 KWH Solar [678 KWH from grid]
June  -  1-30: 197.84 + 112.07 + 2.21(DC) = 312.12 KWH Solar [& 448 KWH from grid]
July   -  1-31: 204.35 + 121.21 + 4.06(DC) = 329.62 KWH Solar [426 KWH from grid; 150(?) KWH used by Nissan Leaf]
August- 1-31: 176.19 + 102.91 + 5.37(DC) = 284.47 KWH Solar [477 KWH from grid; 165 KWH (est) used by car]
Sept. -  1-30:   94.35 +   51.34 + 3.30(DC) = 152.29 KWH Solar [590 KWH from grid; 155 KWH (est) used by car]
Oct.   -  1-31:   77.52 +   41.85 + 4.10(DC) = 123.47 KWH Solar [1066 KWH from grid; 150 KWH (est) used by car]
Nov.  -   1-31:  34.69 +  18.92 + 3.82 = 57.43 KWH Solar [1474 KWH from grid (ouch!); 140 (est) used by car]
Dec. - 1-31: 24.00 + 5.22 + 3.76 = 32.98 [1589 KWH from grid (ouch again! Must be the -10°'s); 120 KWH used by car]

Jan.  - 1-31: 32.83 + 20.54 + 4.57 - 57.94 KWH Solar [2556 from grid] Double ouch! Trailer 400W heater, Perry's RV 500W heater, bedroom heat, car using extra power (100 KWH - less driving)... and so little sun!
Feb.  - 1-28: 66.63 + 32.09 + 3.42(DC) = 102.14 KWH Solar [1118 KWH from grid; 130 (est) used by car]
Three years of solar!

Things Noted - February 2022

* The two new(est) solar panels on the pole seem to always be at least in part shadow. Almost useless!

* The switches allowing some of the panels to switch between the grid ties and the DC system seems to have increased the average take. All 13 panels as well as the 2 new ones that seem to be never in full sun can go to the grid ties instead of 1 or 2 being wasted on the DC when the batteries are in their usual fully charged state.

* When the winter sun is low, that also means it must cut through a far thicker slice of Earth's atmosphere before it reaches the ground. If there are clouds, it is usually very dark. Even in Victoria at 48°N the streetlights may come on during the day in December. Haida Gwaii at 53°N is worse.

* [24th] The sun came out for a bit around noon. I looked at the meters and between the house and the cabin, power was all but 2500 watts! It's not even summer! I remember never quite hitting 2000W in summer. Having more grid ties to spread the load, plus a couple of extra panels, plus switches to move panels from DC system to AC, all make a difference. Hmm... 720W at the cabin and 1750W going into one plug/breaker in the garage.


March 2019-Feb. 2020: 2196.15 KWH Solar [used   7927 KWH from grid]
March 2020-Feb. 2021: 2069.82 KWH Solar [used 11294 KWH from grid]
March 2021-Feb. 2022: 2063.05 KWH Solar [used 10977 KWH from grid]

Three Years with Solar

   The annual contribution from a dozen or 15 solar panels may not seem very much compared to the amount of electricity used overall mostly from the grid, but with the northern latitude and typically cloudy winter days, this has to almost the worst [inhabited] place in the world for solar energy, and the amount used is high because I have some electric heat on - in the travel trailer so it doesn't go mouldy and now Perry's RV to keep (or help keep) him warm, as well as in my bedroom at night. With two people around, usage was bound to rise over being by myself. But the insurance purpose of keeping essentials (other than heat) running if the power grid goes down for an extended period should be met except in the dead of winter (when of course it's most needed). And at least it's making more energy than the Nissan Leaf electric car uses.
   In spite of adding solar panels, switches between AC and DC, and another grid tie inverter, production per year hasn't changed much. One thought would be that the solar panels are deteriorating over time. But it seems more likely that the trees around here have grown taller over the last 3 years. Another idea is that summer 2019 was less cloudy and there was probably more sun to be had. There have been a couple of extra cloudy years here. Also, the improvements were made this autumn and winter and they haven't had a summer to really shine yet.
   Up until 2022 1400 watts was about the highest midday solar collection reading at the house, in the summer. In 2022 about 1750 watts was observed in midday sun in February. By summer it may start blowing the breaker and I'll have to split it into two wall sockets on different circuits.

(Two year writeup was 'late': TE News #156. There was no 1 year writeup.)

Haida Gwaii, BC Canada